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By russell, October 5, 2009 3:30 pm

I have said it before and I’ll say it again. If your not careful in selecting the right roofing contractor you may end up with a roof that looks like the picture below.

This is what happens when you drag your foam hose through wet foam

This is what happens when a foam applicator drags the foam hose over wet foam. This kind of thing  does happen from time to time but the real problem here is the fact that it was left like this. Normally you would take your grinder and grind it flat and then apply your coating, apparently this roofing contractor was to lazy to do it right. Kind of makes you wonder what else they didn’t do. Well take a look at the pictures below.

All around bad foam detail

This picture shows all around bad foam detail. First off they foamed in the A/C condensate line and the A/C electrical conduit. So if for some reason you needed to replace the electrical  or condensate line in addition to hiring an A/C contractor you will also need to hire a roofer. The foam detail is all around bad.

Too much foam on the pipe and not enough around the base of the pipe

This is really a all to common mistake. 9 out of 10 foam roof leaks are due to a failed penetration or some other component and not the foam it’s self. If they would have put the foam they sprayed up the sides of the pipe around the base of the pipe this wouldn’t have happened. As you can see someone tried to fix this by brushing some elastomeric coating around the pipe and as you can see it didn’t work. The proper way to fix this would be to re-foam the pipe. If you didn’t have the money to hire a roofer to do it you could apply a thik bead of urethane caulking around it. It will be a semi permanent fix. By the way this type of failure is due to settlement and the lack of foam around the pipe.

In a nutshell this property owner paid some one to give them a new roof and then paid someone else to fix their mistakes. And believe me it’s not cheap, had they hired a roof consultant from the very beginning the job would have been done right the first time and would have cost them a lot less than it’s costing them now. Remember that cracked pipe how much damage did it cause inside the structure? How many pipes were failed  like that…. About 9. So remember when you decide to have roofing work done it might be a good idea to at least call a roofing consultant  to see what his fees are you might just be surprised. Or you can roll the dice.

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By russell, August 10, 2009 8:41 pm

This article will show you how a tile wall detail is installed on a tile roof system. Keep in mind there are other methods used depending on what type of wall you are tieing into. In this example the roof detail will be lathed and stucco applied over the top. The roof flashings will be behind the lath and stucco. This is how a new constuction stucco home in Arizona would be done.

Step #1.

Your underlayment is installed and nailed, the underlayment type will vary. Typically a 15# or 30# organic felt is used this is the most common.

Tile underlayment

Step #2.

Next we install a J-pan metal and nail it to the wall over the top of the underlayment this metal allows water to run off the roof.

J-pan Metal

Step #3.

Next we are going to flash over the top of our J-pan with another metal called Z-bar. 

Z-bar flashing

Step #4.

Now we apply a waterproofing paper over the top of our Z-bar.

Waterproofing paper

Step #5.

Our tile roof wall detail is now complete. Next we will lath and stucco our wall and lay the tile and the roof is correctly installed.

Finished tile wall detail

There are other methods to do wall details as well. This example was used because it’s a common method used in the southwest. Whatever method  you use the principals are all the same. The underlayment always has a flashing over the top.

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By russell, July 23, 2009 6:46 pm

What is a Cementitious roof ? Or also known as C-cure. C-cure is a light weight Cementitious concrete that is spray applied over a polyurethane foam roof. It is one of the most expensive foam roofs you can buy. The  c-cure has a very high fire rating and is usually applied on schools, government buildings, high traffic roofs or anywhere you need a fire rating.

I was on one recently and took some pictures. The foam application part of the roof is just about as good as they come, but Cementitious part of the roof is as bad as they get.

The application of a Cementitious roof is as follows:

1. Polyurethane foam is applied at a thickness of the roof spec. usually @ 1 1/2 inches or greater.

2. An elastomeric roof coating is applied @ about 1 gal. per 100sqft.

3. A second coat of elastomeric roof coating is applied @ 1.5 gal. per 100sqft. At this time a #6 Aggregate is applied into the wet coating @ the rate of about 35-40lbs per 100sqft.

4. All verticles ”anything above the roof surface” walls, pipes, a/c curbs t-tops ect.  are coated with an elastomeric coating.

5. Finally the C-cure is applied over the roof surface. It’s applied in both directions to prevent voids. The dry thickness is 1/4 of an inch. The finished surface should have a smooth apperance with only the top of the aggregate visable.

Below are some pictures of an inproper c-cure application that will lead to premuture roof failure. Also pictured are incorrect repair methods.

Failed c-cure roof due to improper application

Popcorn Looking c-cure roof

This next picture shows a repair done using an elastomeric roof coating. Elastomeric  coating will not stick to c-cure so thats why this repair has failed.

Elastomeric coated c-cure repair

This next picture shows a c-cure repair done using an aluminum roof coating. You can’t use this coating on a c-cure roof.

You can't use aluminum roof coating on a c-cure roof

What happens now?

This deficiency was discoverd during a roof inspection. Good for the owner because the roof  has not yet completely failed. The bad news is a $15000 c-cure recoat 10 years early. The bottom line here is had the building owner used a roofing consultant to over see this roof installation he wouldn’t have the problem he now has. This is more common than you might think.

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By russell, July 17, 2009 7:07 pm

In this tutorial I’m going to show you how to repair blisters on your foam roof. Foam roof  blisters are not uncommon and are relatively easy to fix. There are many things that can cause blisters please refer to our F.A.Q for common causes.

Normally blisters are not that big of an issue to be concerned with. Unless you have alot of them , They are unusually big  or they are broken. If the blisters are broken then prompt attention is needed to fix them because they can be a source for leaks. It should also be noted that blisters bigger than a baseball should be fixed by a roofing contractor who does foam roofing.

Blisters are fixed as a part of a routine roof re-coat.

In this first picture it identifys a golf ball size blister.

Step 1.

Cut the blister out using a razor knife (bread knifes work the best).

This is a golfball sized blister

Step 2.

Fill the hole with a polyurethane caulking. DO NOT use any other kind of caulking your repair will fail.

Use polyurethane caulking to fill the repair area.

Step 3.

Tool the caulking with a piece of cardboard or putty knife. Make sure you tool the caulking past all of the edges.

Tool the caulking

Step 4.

Coat the repaired area with an elastomeric roof coating. This is a permanent repair.

This is the same process a roofing contractor will use to fix blisters that are baseball sized or smaller and less than a 1/2 inch deep.

Below is a picture of a blister that you should not attempt to fix. If you have one that is broke and might be leaking you can caulk it then have it repaired later.

Volleyball size foam roof blister

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By russell, July 16, 2009 10:25 pm

One thing that often damages a urethane foam roof is bird and bee damage. This type of damage is usually found near the edges of roofs or on top of parapit walls mostly on roofs with overgrown trees hanging over the top. What happens is  birds peck holes in the foam and then the bees come and tunnel through the holes. This kind of damage is very easy to fix if caught early, but if left ignored it can cause extensive costly damage. I have seen complete walls and edges in need of complete tear off and re-foamed because this type of damage was ignored. The reason birds and bees do this is because one of the main ingredients in foam is sugar. Some ways you can help prevent this is by

1. Keeping trees cut back from the roof.

2. Place rubber snakes or plastic owls in the areas that are being effected. 

In this tutorial I’m going to show you step by step how to fix this type of damage.

Things you will need:

1. Polyurethane caulking, DO NOT use any other kind of caulking they will not work (especially silicone) it will popout of the hole like a plug due to expanding and contracting. 

2. A piece of cardboard or something similar to tool the caulking with.

3. elastomeric roof coating, disposable paintbrush and gloves

4. caulking gun.

This is what tey call bird and bee damage

 Step 1.

Clean off the oxidized foam with a fingernail or brush.

Step 2.

Fill up hole with caulking.

Fill With polyurethane caulking

Step 3.

Tool the caulking with cardboard or putty knife, apply a little pressure to make sure the caulking is down in the hole.

Apply a little pressure to ensure the hole is filled

Step 4.

Apply a generous coat of elastomeric roof coating over the urethane caulking. This is very important with out this coating the suns uv rays will destroy the caulking and your repair will fail.

The finished repair

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By russell, July 11, 2009 12:58 pm

Here is an example of a roof  installation that was doomed to fail the second it was finished. This is about a 10 year old foam roof that was installed over the top of 3 other roofs. When this roof was tore off we found a cockroach infestation. Standing water between layers. And a host of other problems. Had the homeowner obtained a roof inspection prior to the foam roof installation this would have forced the roofing company to tear of all pre-existing roof layers prior to the foam roof installation. In most cases you are only allowed to have one  previous layer. This is determined by various factors to include, but not limited to the following:

1. That the roof structure is sufficient to sustain the weight

of the additional dead load of the roof covering.

2. Fire retardant requirements are maintained.

3. The existing roof covering is securely attached to the

deck.

4. The roof is structurally sound.

5. The existing insulation (if installed) is not water soaked

6. Roof drains and drainage are sufficient to prevent

extensive accumulation of water.

A failed 10 year old foam roof

In this picture it shows the roof layers being tore off and the discovery of water. There had been no recordable rain in at least 90 days.

Water in between existing roof layers

After a complete tear off, the roof is finished with a new ployurethane roof system. The new roof is properly installed and the homeowner should expect at least 20 years with proper maintenance.

This is a properly installed foam roof

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By russell, June 25, 2009 6:26 pm

Description:

These roofing systems are typically a single sheet, reinforced in the middle with either a polyester or fiberglass mat for strength and modified with rubberized asphalt.  This allows the roof to expand and contract with building movement.  The Modified sheet should be installed over a mechanically fastened base-sheet.  These systems are mopped in place with hot asphalt.  These roof systems are also installed using a cold process called permanent bond.  It is applied with a torch to melt it to the base sheet.  The surfaces of the modified bitumen roof  are either smooth or granular finish that come in a selection of colors.

Uses:

These roof systems are used as an upgrade from built-up roofing systems. 

Life Span:

The expected life span of this system will exceed 15 years.  The roofing industry has seen excellent results from the modified bitumens roof.

Caution:

• Torch applied systems can be dangerous and can cause fires.  Extra attention in the application phase is very important.

Limitations:

Proper installation of this roof system is critical.  Details in the construction and installation procedures need to be planned very carefully.

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By russell,

Description:

Built-up Roofing consists of alternate layers of roofing felt and individual moppings of “Hot Asphalt.”  Built-Up Roofing may include either 3 or 4 piles of roofing felt.  Top surfacing can consist of gravel, smooth of granular surfaces similar to the look of a roofing shingle.

Uses:

A Built-up Roof is the most common type of roof for flat applications.  They can be installed over insulation, on metal roof decks, or directly on plywood roof decks with or without insulation.

Life Span:

A Four-Ply Built-Up roof will last 9 to 11 years and a Three-Ply normally lasts 6 to 8 years.  If the roofs are professionally maintained, they should last another 4 to 5 years.

Caution:

• Asphalt is the waterproofing.  Be sure to install enough asphalt.
• Although over heating the asphalt during installation aids the crews to install a job faster, it lowers the quality of the roof.  Use proper techniques to insure the best installation and quality of your roof.

Limitations:

• It’s recommended that the old roof be removed before re-roofing.
• Proper flashing details are critical to ensure a roof that will last.

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By russell,

Description:

These 12” by 36” granular surfaced shingles are installed on slopes of 2 inches per running foot or greater.  They are installed over a felt under layment of usually a 15 or 30 pound felt, depending on the slope.  Shingles come in weights between 180 and 400 pounds per 10’ X 10’ or 100 square feet.

Uses:

The basic shingle is a commodity product typically used for residential applications.  Shingles may also be used on vertical parapet wall applications, provided special fastening patterns are followed.

Approximate Life Span:

The greater the slope of the roof, the faster the water runs off.  This is a determining factor in the life expectancy of the shingle.  The heavier the shingle, the longer the wearing surface lasts.  If shingles are dark in color and lightweight(180 lbs) expect a life of  7 to 9 years.  For a 400 pound fiberglass shingle, you can expect about 17 years.  For weighs somewhere in the middle, expect a life of about 12 to 15 years.

Caution:

• Stay with lighter colors for longer shingle life expectancy.

• Shingle exposure should be carefully measured to insure proper installation patterns.  A small error can throw off the entire roof pattern and allow leaks to occur.

Limitations:

Shingle manufactures require a minimum slope of 2” in 12”.  If you go below this and have a “blow off, “ your insurance company may not cover the damage.

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By russell,

Description:

Tile roofs come in a variety of styles and materials.  They consist of one piece “S Tiles” that are seen on many office building roofs.  There are two piece tiles, called “Pans and Tops,” that are placed on Spanish style homes.  The tiles are made of sand-cast, fired clay, concrete construction, and “light concrete.”  All tile roofs require roofing felt underlayment,  because the tile is simply a decorative watershed.

Uses:

Tile is installed most often to add beauty to a building project.  Tile roofing by itself is not waterproof.   A felt underlayment is required. 

Approximate Life Span:

Some tile manufactures proclaim their products have a 50 year life span.  The underlayment felt usually needs to be replaced on or before the 18^th to 25^th year.  The existing tile can be reinstalled over the new felt.  The slope of the roof is a determining factor in the life expectancy.  The greater the slope, the longer the felt will last.

Caution:

The Uniform Building Code has very specific installation procedures for mechanically fastening tiles in place.  Our experience has shown that approximately 75% of the tile roofs that have been inspected do not meet the Uniform Building Code.  These tile roofs lack the necessary perimeter mechanical fasteners.

Limitations:

• Slope requirements for the installation of tile roofs are a minimum of 3 inches of vertical drop for every 12 inches of run in order to meet the local building code and have an effective waterproof system.
• Tile roofs are difficult to walk on and break easily, especially the sand-cast and clay varieties.